Tanimachi Rokuchome, nicknamed “Taniroku” by the people of Osaka.
Located at the intersection Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line and Nagahori Tsurumi-Ryokuchi Line, Taniroku is within a 10-minute train ride of Umeda, Shinsaibashi, and Tennoji, and despite being in the heart of the city, it has a nostalgic atmosphere centered on Karahori shopping street that stretches east to west.
The charm of Taniroku lies not only in its nostalgic atmosphere, but also in the many shops that make use of machiya (traditional townhouses) and other structures, making it a very worthwhile place to explore.
I decided to enjoy pottering from the retro yet modern Taniroku to Tennoji Park, stopping at my favorite spots along the way.

Renting a bike at Uemachi Bicycle Rental

I went to Uemachi Bicycle Rental Shop while checking its location on TABIRIN app, but the shop did not have a name on it, and I had to go back and forth in front of the shop.
I told him that I wanted to go pottering to Tennoji Park today, and decided to rent a minivelo with a basket.

▲The shop is also used by foreign tourists, so it is also written in English.

▲The owner set up the bike for me.

How to explore Taniroku

After renting a bicycle, I got talking and learned about the history of Taniroku.
I was told that during Showa period (1926-1989), Taniroku was home to many printing houses, and that when they were young, famous cartoonists such as Osamu Tezuka would come to Taniroku to have their cartoons printed.
Nowadays, there are many unique shops in Taniroku, mainly for young people, and I imagined that there had always been a soil that embraced art and individuality.
Afterwards, the owner took me to the back alley. He told me that the entrance to the back alley in Osaka is characterized by its “roofed” entrance. It looks like a tunnel.

After passing through this tunnel, I found, to my surprise, a courtyard with an open space.　It was such a cozy space that I would love to have a drink while chatting with my friends here when the weather is nice.

▲After passing through the alleyway, there was such a large space! Amazing!

In another alleyway, there is a private hotel converted from an old private house, a cat café, a dog café, and an international comic café, making me realize that Taniroku is a very deep area.

Let’s start pottering!

Isshinji Temple, popular among foreigners

It takes a little over 10 minutes by bicycle from Taniroku to Isshinji Temple, just before Tennoji Park.
Isshinji Temple is a temple of Jodo Shu (the Pure Land Sect of Buddhism) in Tennoji Ward, Osaka City. At the entrance of the temple, there is a bronze statue that looks like a sculpture from overseas, and it is said to be a popular tourist spot among foreign tourists because of its design that makes you think it is a museum if you do not know anything about it.

▲Niomon gate (mountain gate) has a statue so large that you can see it from this distance.

▲A very fine statue of Nio!

Tennoji Park

Tennoji Park is located right in front of Tennoji Station and is a place for citizens to relax, with a lawn square, a zoo, and Osaka City Museum of Fine Arts.

The lawn square in particular is spacious and pleasant with cafés and other facilities, but it is crowded on weekends, so head in the direction of Chausuyama (Mt.Chausu), where there are fewer people. You can bring your bicycle into the park if you are doing a push walk.

▲Chausuyama across the pond. There is also a Japanese garden in the park.

I found a large bird that I don’t see in everyday life. It didn’t move when I approached it, so I was taking pictures with Tsutenkaku Tower in the background. I tried several times to take a trick photo of the bird attacking Tsutenkaku Tower, but the number of people was increasing and it flew away before I could finish the shot.
I wish I had noticed it earlier so I could have taken an interesting picture. What a pity!

▲A large bird showing its unflappable dignity against the backdrop of Tsutenkaku Tower.

Now that I enjoyed Tennoji Park enough, I moved on to the next point of interest.

Antique Market at Shitennoji Temple

A 5~6 minute bike ride from Tennoji Park brought me to Shitennoji Temple.
Shitennoji Temple, built in 593, is the first temple of New Saigoku Sanjusanjo (33 temples), a pilgrimage to the Goddess of Kannon, and is a very popular and lively temple with some kind of market every time you visit.
This time, an antique market was being held, and you might find some bargains! If you like flea markets, this is a good place to visit.

▲The photo has a halo. Shitennoji is always bustling with people!

▲Japanese and Western goods are lined up in front of each marquee.

▲Old kimonos, too. I’m sure there are some bargains to be found if you look hard enough.

▲There really was a wide variety of things on display.

After enjoying the antique market at Shitennoji, I was feeling a little hungry, so I headed to a café in Uehonmachi.

Take a break at Zeniya Café in Uehonmachi

It takes about 5~6 minutes by bicycle from Shitennoji to Zeniya Café in Uehonmachi.

▲I took this photo in front of the shop, but there is a bicycle parking lot in the back of the shop, so bicycle users can also visit without any worries.

I intended to have tea, but the café was full and I had to wait for a while.

However, even though I had to wait, the entire Zeniya café is “Zeniya Hompo”, with not only a café space but also a gallery, a space for workshops, a kitchen, and a variety of other spaces where you can take courses and other classes. When I visited, the gallery was hosting a fountain pen event, “On the DESK Vol. 4 for New Life –Enjoying Everyday Life”, so I decided to take a peek.

▲At the entrance of the shop, there is also information about cooking and yoga classes that make use of the workshop space!

Welcome to the Deep Ink World

I was able to not only look at but also try out fountain pens from all over the world. I felt that fountain pens are very challenging in terms of how to hold them and the angle at which to write with them. I thought I was too young to have my own pen, but was told that there is a pen called “Karappo Pen.” “Karappo Pen” can be filled with fountain pen ink, and is easy to use while retaining the taste of the unevenness of the ink, which is typical of fountain pens.

▲Fountain pens from around the world

▲The room is gorgeous with lots of fountain pens and inks!

I heard that ink for fountain pens is becoming popular mainly on SNS, and that there are limited edition ink colors of the year, etc.,  It unexpectedly makes many people who are getting deeply, deeply addicted to the ink world. Browsing the shop, I could find various colored inks and my faltering handwriting seemed cute. I was hesitant, but I finally decided to buy “Karappo Pen” and ink.

▲I bought “Karappo Pen” made in Taiwan and a green ink called “Wei Lai” (Wei Lai is an ink made in collaboration with NPO Katariba, and the color is based on its corporate color, green).

The shop owner said to me, “Welcome to the deep ink world.”
Am I going to get stuck in a deep, deep ink swamp world? I don’t know what the future would be, but I feel like writing a letter for the first time in a while.

▲Of course, I didn’t draw above them. I heard they were drawn by a professional artist. It has a nice atmosphere, doesn’t it?

There was still some time left, so I was shown around the gallery space. The gallery is a maisonette-style space, like a hideaway, and it is a wonderful place to relax and spend time.

▲It’s like a hideaway.

▲You can read the books on the shelves

Finally, a short break

While I was enjoying the gallery, the staff of the café space came to greet me.

I was hungry, so I ordered a gateau chocolat and a strong, rich, and full-bodied Zeniya Café Colombia, a self-roasted coffee.

▲The sweetness and bitterness soaked in with a pleasant sense of fatigue from pottering around!

▲The café space also has a nice atmosphere.

After settling my stomach and taking a well-deserved break, I decided to return to Taniroku.

Strolling around Tanimachi Rokuchome while returning the bicycle

It took less than 10 minutes cycling from Zeniya Café in Uehonmachi to the entrance of Karahori shopping street in Taniroku. I cycled around Taniroku again on my way to return the bike.

▲Naoki Sanjuugo Memorial Museum. “Art is short, poverty is long”

Naoki Sanjugo (1891-1934) is a novelist. “Naoki Prize”, one of Japan’s top literary awards, is named after his impact on Japanese literary history.

I returned to Uemachi Bicycle Rental shop, but the owner was not there. I waited for a while, but I did not know how long he was away, so I called him and he came out right away. Thank you so much!

▲The end of the pottering with great enjoyment

As dusk falls, Karahori shopping street, the main street, becomes quiet, but in the back alleys, food shops begin to open and the atmosphere is warmer than during the daytime, which makes me want to visit at night.

▲Karahori shopping street. Many shops on the main street close after 6:00 p.m., but not in the back alleys.

▲Cute stores here and there

Summary

This was a very enjoyable pottering tour of my favorite places. All of the places are easy to visit by bicycle, so I hope you will find them useful for your bicycle trip.

It takes about 10minutes from Taniroku to Tennoji station by Osaka Metro. On foot, it would take about an hour each way, so you can’t make many side trips. However, when you head south from Taniroku, as I did this time, you can go to the next point in less than 10minutes by bicycle, which expands your range of activities.
Why not try pottering around Osaka City?

▼Tennoji Park
https://www.japan.travel/en/spot/1099/